There are many factors to consider when purchasing a trailer. One of the first considerations is to choose an established trailer manufacturer. As with most everything, you usually get what you paid for, so try to choose the best trailer that you can afford.

Deciding on what type of trailer you need for your application will help in narrowing down the manufacturers. There are trailers for almost every conceivable type of cargo, from motorcycles to horses to concessions. If you have to haul it, then there’s a trailer made to haul it or at least one that can easily be converted to do the job.

After choosing a manufacturer, figure out what size trailer you’ll need. Trailers come in several different widths and lengths. If you’re considering an enclosed trailer, you’ll also need to consider the height of the interior. If your trailer towing needs require that you spend very much time inside the trailer, choose one with enough interior height to keep you from bending your neck or back when standing.

Open or Enclosed Trailers

The next step in choosing a trailer is figuring out whether you will need an open or an enclosed trailer. An open trailer is one which exposes the cargo to the outside elements. If inclement weather isn’t a factor for your cargo, then an open trailer may be the most economical choice. Open utility trailers can range in price from about $900 to $2500 new.

Open utility trailers are well suited for many applications including small landscaping businesses that are just starting out and need a way to haul their landscape equipment. As their business grows and they decide to move up to an enclosed trailer, the open utility trailer will still be incredibly useful for hauling all sorts of material such as mulch, rock and plants.

Another plus for open trailers is their weight. Open utility trailers tend to be lighter and provide less aerodynamic drag than enclosed trailers.

While open trailers are economical and very useful, they do not provide the protection from the outside environment that an enclosed trailer will. Enclosed trailers also offer an added measure of security because the trailer functions as a portable, lockable storage building.

Enclosed trailers tend to be heavier and less aerodynamic than open trailers. Enclosed trailers usually cost in the $1600 to $5000 range new, but can go much higher.

Single or Tandem Axle

Once you’ve decided on either an open utility trailer or an enclosed cargo trailer, you’ll need to decide whether the trailer should have a single axle, dual axle or possibly even three to four axles.

Single axle trailers have just one load bearing axle. Trailers with single axles come with and without brakes, but as a general rule of thumb, most single axle open and enclosed trailers come without brakes. If you plan on hauling more than 3000 lbs, trailer brakes need to be considered. In fact, it’s a legal requirement in most states.

Anything heavier than 3000 lbs should be hauled on a dual axle trailer, be it an open or enclosed trailer. Dual axle trailers use two load bearing axles and usually feature either leaf springs or independent torsion bar suspensions. Brakes are recommended for dual axle trailers and again may be required depending upon where you live. Also, dual axle trailers tend to track more accurately than single axle trailers over varying road surfaces.

Rear Access

If you decide on an enclosed trailer, next you have to decide on either a ramp rear door, double rear doors or one single barn-type door. Choosing the type of rear access will greatly depend on the cargo you intend to haul. If you’re going to be hauling a motorcycle, race car or any other type vehicle, then a ramp rear door will provide the easiest loading and unloading method.

Be sure though when purchasing a trailer with a ramp door that the ramp is spring assisted as some of the ramp doors can be very heavy. Ramps are also nice for hauling furniture or other heavy items where you’ll be using a dolly to load and unload them.

If you will be using the trailer quite often and will be in and out of it, then a ramp can become rather cumbersome. Enter double door trailers. It is much easier to open the doors, step in and get the tool or item you need and then step out and close the door than it is to drop a ramp every time you need access. Too, you have to consider the clearance needed for opening a ramp rear door.

Single barn type rear doors are usually found on smaller enclosed trailers and are comparable in convenience to double rear doors.

Trailer manufacturers are aware of the ramp issue and most now add a side door for access to their enclosed trailers giving those that require a ramp the best of both worlds.

Or does it cut-out on you sometimes when your are going to visit your in-laws?

Does it *spit* and *sputter* and *backfire*, then start running ok, again?

Symptoms of this nature can be several things.

o You could have a sparkplug wire shorting out.

o You could have an electrical wire shorting out.

o You may have some water in the fuel tank.

Let’s take the most common of these three mentioned.

Over the years you cannot keep they fuel tank full at all times.

With a fuel tank half full, the upper part can cause condensation.

This condensation will slowly build up and run down into the bottom of the tank.

When you start to pass another vehicle you call upon the fuel pump to give me more gasoline.

The fuel pump starts working overtime and picks up more fuel, then the water goes into the line along with the gasoline.

The fuel filter catches this water and since water is heavier than gasoline, it drops to the bottom of the filter.

After awhile though, you come up behind me, and I’m not driving quite as fast as you would like to go, so you floorboard it and go around me.

What happens when you floorboard it?

Right, you are asking for more fuel.

With the filter partially full of condensation, water, some of it gets picked up into the fuel line and goes to the carburetor or injector.

“Chug-a-lug, chug-a-lug, Pow!”

Purr, purr, purr.

See what happens?

You can solve this problem, most of the time, by changing the fuel filter two or three times a year.

Now, if you have just filled up at the pump, and your car starts acting this way, you may have to take the fuel tank off and clean it out.

Or, pay someone else to do it!

All vehicles, no matter what make or model have tie rod ends.

On vehicles with Rack and Pinion Steering there are only two, but on others, there are four.

The tie rod end attaches to the steering knuckle on each front wheel on Rack and Pinion Steering.

On non-R&P steering, there is one attached to the steering knuckle on each front wheel and one attached to the long bar that controls both wheels for steering, called a Tie Rod Drag Link.

This link is connected to the pitman arm coming from the steering gear-box and also connected to an idler arm for stability purposes.

The little tie rod ends on non R&P screw into a sleeve with both right-handed threads and left-handed threads.

When you have the toe-in set on your vehicle, the technician can loosen two bolts and nuts and twist this sleeve�…this makes the tires go out or in.

It is very important to have these tie rod ends greased every time you have the oil and filter changed in the engine.

Why? Well, if you don’t grease them then, when will you?

The importance in greasing them is to keep them moving freely.

If they get dry they will wear out quickly.

If they wear out, they can come apart.

If they come apart, you won’t be able to steer your vehicle. Not a good thing.

Now, grant you, on some of the newer vehicles the manufacturers decided to leave off the grease fittings.

These tie rods come pre-packed and will last a very long time.

But, you should have them ‘checked ‘ at each oil change.

Some have a threaded hole for the grease fitting, but they have a small cap over them.

You can remove the cap and add a fitting so you can grease it.

Any time you replace a tie rod end, be sure to grease it, and the others if you can.

Take care of your vehicle so it will take care of you and your family!

The concept is fairly simple. Advertising space on billboards along busy roads and highways is limited and in some places not allowed at all. It’s possible, however, to reach many of those people another way. Companies advertise on the outside of cars to reach those same people. The problem is that purchasing an entire fleet of cars for an advertising campaign can be overly expensive, so a solution was developed.

Instead of purchasing their own cars, companies will sometimes “rent” space on individual private citizen’s cars. In return for letting a company “wrap” your car with their advertisement, they will pay you a monthly fee. The fees can be as high as $400 a month for a full car wrap and lesser amounts for a partial car wrap or a window wrap.

Another option that some of these companies offer in place of car wraps is giving you a free car with advertisements already on it. You usually don’t get paid in this deal or get to choose the type of car provided, but you do receive free use of the car for the period of the campaign. Your only costs are gas and insurance meaning that you are getting transportation at a fraction of the cost of owning your own car. There are some rare cases when you can get paid when receiving a free car. Some companies will pay you to drive the free cars along certain, specified routes each day.

So what is the catch? The main one is there are far more drivers wanting the positions than advertising campaigns available. If you don’t drive a lot of miles or live in a highly populated area (large college campuses seem to be an ideal location) where the advertisement will be seen by a population the advertisers crave, your chances of being chosen are slim. Most companies require you to drive a minimum of 800 miles a month. Not driving enough miles can negate the contract and most companies utilize global positioning systems (GPS) in your car to track the miles and places you go each month.

Most programs require you to be 18 years of age, have a clean driving record and your own auto insurance. Traffic violations will in most cases prohibit you from being considered. Contracts vary in length and amount paid depending on the type of advertising in the campaign involved. Most companies don’t let you pick the advertiser, but will let you bow out if the advertiser goes against your moral values (cigarettes, alcohol and sex).

With the concept there are a growing number of websites that don’t actually offer the service of car wrapping, but claim to be a data base for advertisers to find people willing to advertise on their cars. Many offer free sign up, but then encourage you to purchase a “premium package” that is supposed to move your name higher up on the list. The fact is that you are very unlikely to be picked from these services so it isn’t worth the time (and definitely not the money) signing up with them.

While the chances of being picked are slim, they are better than playing the lottery. If you meet the requirements and live in an area you believe would be desirable to advertisers, it could be worth the 15 to 30 minutes it takes to fill out the online forms. If you are lucky and do get picked, you will significantly reduce your driving expenses with little effort on your part.

One of the most important functions of lubricating oil is to reduce the friction between the moving parts of machinery. But there are other features to look at.

When do you know that the oil needs to be changed? Below is a rough guide:

1. Viscosity has changed by 10%

2. Flash Point has dropped to 150 degree Celsius

3. Water Content has reached 2%

4. TBN, or Total Base Number has reduced by 20%

5. Insoluble Content has increased to 5% of the oil

Due to the oxidation of the oil when exposed to heat and oxygen, the viscosity of the oil tend to reduce. With the reduction of viscosity, the film of oil between rubbing metal surfaces becomes more difficult to maintain. This results in metal to metal contact, micro seizures that leads to scuffing, abrasion and other damages.

In large diesel engines, fuel oil from dripping injectors or fuel pumps sometimes finds their way into the lubrication oil sump. This has the tendency to reduce the flash point of the lubricating oil. In addition to reducing the viscosity that is detrimental to lubrication, this contamination with fuel oil can be quite dangerous. If there is a hotspot in any of the rubbing parts, this can lead to a crankcase explosion.

Water can also find its way into the lubricating oil from leaks in the cooling water system o-rings or gaskets. In addition to reducing the lubricating properties of the oil, the presence of water in the oil can give rise to bacteria or fungal growth, which will quickly damage the oil properties as well as contributing to acid corrosion and oxidation of the oil, changing the chemical composition of the oil itself. However, if the water content is below 0.5%, it can still be removed by centrifugal purifiers.

The total base number is especially needed for the cylinder liner lubrication of engines that run on poor quality fuel with high sulphur content. The base additive is used to reduce the corrosive effects of the sulphuric acid fumes on the cylinder.

With large diesel engine installations, the lubricating oils are continuously filtered and purified to reduce the insoluble particles in the oil. Special strainers containing magnets are used to trap particles of carbon or iron particles. In large diesel engines, the carbon particles are byproducts of combustion while the iron particles comes from rubbing of gears, cams or other parts where wear down still occur.

The presence of these particles interferes with the lubrication of bearings, most of which contain soft white-metal coating. The particles can become embedded into the soft metal and cause abrasion of the metal parts.

To cater the Indian market, Skoda India, a fully owned subsidiary of the parent company was incorporated. The subsidiary witnessed a sales growth of 90% during the period 2010-11 thereby indicating the growing popularity of Skoda cars in the country. The company has launched four models in India – Fabia, Laura, Yeti, and Superb.

Fabia is spacious with a compact, elegant look catering to the small car segment. It is equipped with latest security systems and gadgets. The front section of the car has airbags both for the driver and passenger seats thereby minimizing the impact of head collisions. It has an anti-lock braking system and a dual rate brake assist that helps you to maximize your control over the car on different roads. It is also fitted with fog lamps to provide maximum visibility. Moreover, to protect your car from being stolen, it has a floating code system. The code changes everytime the key is pulled out of ignition thereby making it impossible to detect the code through trial and error.

Skoda Laura is a mid-size car available in three variants – Skoda Laura Laurin and Klement, Skoda Laura Elegance, and Skoda Laura Ambiente. They mainly differ in their engine types and transmission specifications. However, the engines of all the variants have 4 cylinders. The cars also have necessary accessories like boot spoiler, floor mats, wind deflectors, fire extinguisher, and even a clothes hanger to prevent your clothes from getting creased.

Skoda Yeti is an SUV having a tank-like appearance and is meant for changing terrains. It provides driving in 4X4 mode that starts automatically when required. It is available in different colors of black, mato brown, brilliant silver, candy white, etc.

Skoda Superb is a luxury car with a distinct design meant for refined tastes. It has the highest level of security systems like eight airbags and Electronic Brakeforce Distribution that sends warning signals to speedy drivers to control their speed to avoid any mishap.

Common causes of distracted driving are listed below and should be avoided.
1. Texting while driving
2. Cell phone use
3. Adjusting the radio or CD player channel or volume
4. Talking to someone in the back seat
5. Eating and/or drinking
6. Reading (newspaper, book, map, etc.)
7. Reaching for items in the back seat, behind or under the seat or glove compartment
8. Smoking – especially lighting the cigarette or other
9. Applying make-up or shaving
10. Adjusting temperature controls
11. Thinking about something other than driving – day dreaming
12. Upset emotionally – you decide to go for a ride to ease your mind – Subconsciously your mind is not on driving. It is on the situation that just occurred.
13. Irritable or anxious because you have to use the restroom and don’t want to stop
14. Taking off or putting clothes (sweater, jacket or other)
15. Wearing improper shoes (some types of sandals will get caught in the pedal)

All of these things and more mentioned above causes you to not pay attention while driving. No matter what type of vehicle (car, van, 18-wheeler, motorcycle, truck or other) you must pay attention to the road and respect it.

In order not to be a statistic of unsafe driving these are some basic things to do:
- prepare yourself mentally and physically before getting in the seat to drive
- set your radio, CD, temperature controls, so that there is minimal adjusting possible
- turn your cell phone off or mute – Do Not Text under any circumstance, unless you stop the car safely
- eat or drink before starting or stop along the way
- place any item that you may think will cause you to reach in the back seat, into the truck of the car (example: brief case, book, newspaper)
- visit the restroom before starting
- smoke before or after

The main thing to remember is to always be conscious of your surroundings or environment. Observe what the other drivers or doing and be aware of what’s going on all sides. Risky operation of any type of vehicle ultimately leads to a hazardous or crisis situation. Safe driving will usually alleviate distracted driving if you are careful and know the rules of the road.

Many manufacturers are now offering bolt on added horsepower of anywhere from 50 to 300 extra horsepower for the very popular Ford Mustang 4.6 Modular Engines by bolting on a supercharger, turbocharger, or nitrous oxide. The consumer is under the impression that it really is just a bolt on and go kit. And in a lot of cases it can be. Especially with the milder horsepower upgrades, driven conservatively, a kit might be well suited for no additional add ons other than a tuning upgrade.

Whenever I give a quote for a 4.6 Ford Modular Engine being built for use with a power adder I always recommend that the engine be upgraded to include aftermarket head bolt studs. The factory head fasteners are not capable of enough clamping force to hold the head securely to the block for the increased cylinder head pressures caused by the power adder. When the engine is producing more horsepower and has more cylinder pressure, the head is trying to “lift” off the block with each explosion in the head chamber.

Remember in high school when they told you about Newton’s Third Law of Motion? The third law states that for every action (force) in nature there is an equal and opposite reaction. In this case the “reaction” is the force trying to “lift” the head off the block. As the force to push the piston down increases so does the force to “lift” the head increase. Make sense?

It becomes the “vicious cycle” of engine building. The stock fasteners can’t hold the head properly so you blow a head gasket. The head has some damage and you have it machined a few thousandths. Now the head is more susceptible to blow another head gasket because the compression has increased a bit from the machining. Again you shave the head and the process repeats itself until one day someone suggests that you use an aftermarket set of head studs that can provide enough clamping force preventing the head from lifting off the block.

Head studs should be installed on any Ford Modular 4.6 and 5.4 Engine where a power adder has been installed. Head studs are available for all Modular engines. The most popular head studs are manufactured by ARP and are available through the link at the end of this article.

Especially designed for Indian roads and Indian families, the Eeco is a five-door C-segment vehicle available in an option of 5 and 7 seater. The spectrum of colors available like bright red, silky silver, blue maze, midnight black, glistening grey, and superior white is also enticing. The exterior appeal with its spacious volume and trendy graphics makes it stand out on road.

The interior is equally appealing and spacious offering satisfactory levels of comfort and luxury. Moreover, the dual tone shades of beige and grey enhance the ambience along with digital metre cluster featured with amber illumination. Then the ergonomic layout, ample legroom, and spacious sitting in both the front and rear enhance the level of comfort and mobility experience. The equipped air conditioner also comes with an outstanding ability to combat extreme climate changes in a desirable manner and offer a pleasant environment within.

When it comes to performance, the Eeeco is an exciting surprise with advanced technologies and unique features under the hood. All the variants are equipped with a powerful and responsive 1200cc BS IV compliant engine that delivers 73 bhp @ 6000 rpm. Further to that the use of high pressure injection system, knock sensors, compression ratios, crank sensors, and low friction pistons provide outstanding fuel efficiency and driving experience. Moreover, the innovative diagonal shift assistance has been incorporated for smoother gear shifting to ensure maximum driving pleasure.

The advanced engine is mated to the bets-in-class suspension system suited for Indian roads to soak all imperfections and bumps. The front is equipped by a McPherson strut suspension with dual rate coil springs and the rear is fitted with 3-link rigid suspension with progressive rate coil spring to support superior handling, driving comfort, and handling.

With all the functional features and best-in-class technologies, Maruti Suzukli Eeco is certainly one of the best green cars in the C-segment. Perfectly designed to create a work-life balance, the Eeco is a wonderful car.

Of course, you’ll need to consult the rules and regulations of your individual racing series, but the following guide should give you some idea about each of the more common types of racing safety products.

Racing Suit
Almost all motorsport in the UK will require the use of an FIA / MSA approved racing suit. In all but the rarest of cases, this suit will need to be made from a flame-resistant material such as nomex. Manufacturers such as Sabelt produce racing suits for all sorts of budgets – expect to pay from around one hundred pounds up to several thousands, depending on your race series’ regulations.

HANS
HANS stands for Head and Neck Support, a shoulder-mounted frame which is attached at the top to your racing helmet. The HANS helps protect your neck in the event of an accident by keeping your upper chest in line with your head at all times – preventing whiplash and the other common neck injuries which are frequently caused by motor racing incidents. Although the cost of many HANS devices may appear prohibiting, always bear in mind that – as in so many things – you get what you pay for. HANS devices are a professional racing safety product and are effectively a vital addition to your motor racing safety armoury – especially in the higher echelons of the sport.

In Car Fire Extinguishers
Many racing series specify the installation of specially-designed in-car racing fire extinguishers, such as those produced by Sabelt. These fire extinguishers differ from regular domestic or commercial-application fire extinguishers as they are specifically designed to be used in closed environments (car cockpits, for example) rather than in the open air, and/or whilst the car is moving. They are also designed to control and put out all sorts of fire. For example, fires which have been caused by petrol or an electrical fault would, in other circumstances, require the use of multiple (different) fire extinguishers. Motor racing-specific fire extinguishers can tackle both of these types of fire.